Official Dream Disney Vacations

Walking to Atlin

Google Maps now includes walking directions as well as driving directions. And so I can find that walking from Charlottetown, PEI to Atlin, BC
would take 54 days and 9 hours. I'm also warned:

Use caution ? This route may be missing sidewalks or pedestrian paths.

Perhaps more practical, it's good to know that I should be able to walk to Halifax in 2 days
once the oil runs out.
Home

We arrived back from Iceland in Halifax late last night, having met up with Olle and Luisa, en route from Copenhagen, in Keflavik. We stashed ourselves at the Quality Inn by the airport, and then took a swing through Halifax proper this morning. Coffee at Cafe Ristretto, lunch at Wooden Monkey, then drive and ferry home for supper at The Noodle House
. Not a bad introduction to the east coast culinary scene.

Tomorrow we rejoin our regularly scheduled programming.
Highway 518

We didn't really have a plan for today. So we woke up and headed down to breakfast here at Hraunsnef Country Hotel
with only a sketchy idea of what the day would hold.

I choose this hotel almost completely at random: I knew we wanted to see something of Western Iceland, and that we wanted to be in the countryside, but that was about it. Iceland Farmholidays
was where I turned first, but they have a "you can't book a specific place" policy that didn't strike me as all that convenient. Hraunsnef, although a member of their network, also allows independent bookings, however, so lured in by their website
, I booked two nights. It wasn't until we arrived that we got some concept of the area.

Under the counsel of our friendly host, we decided to spend the day looping up Highway 518. It was quite a journey: by my rough calculation we passed through about a dozen geologic epochs and just as many biological regions: we saw everything from verdant riverside fields full of sheep to bouldered Moon-like landscapes:

Highway 518 winds its way up one side of a valley and back down the other. At the apex of the loop you can almost see the Langj�kull glacier -- if we'd had a more powerful car we could have driven closer, but one look at the "F" road that led that way (the designation given to "you need a 4x4" roads) and we realized that we had to be content with a faraway look:

Down the other side we passed a little country church with an "organ" made of rocks:

And a little bit down the road an impressive waterfall that came out of the side of a river:

The tiny village of Reykholt was where we stopped for lunch. Alas we stopped at 2:06 p.m. and the only restaurant in town, at the big tourist hotel, closed for lunch at 2:00 p.m., so we had to be content with bread and cheese from the gas station (good bread, though). Reykholt is an important historic site in Iceland, a centre of literature and religion; while the modern and historic churches are indeed impressive, the museum under the church is moribund and not at all a must-see. We did learn, however, that it's time to cut Oliver loose next week:

At the end of Highway 518 is Deildartunguhver, the largest geothermal spring in the world: it spews out 50 gallons of boiling water a second, water that's piped long-distance to the towns of Borgarnes (34 km) and Akranes (64 km):

By this time the day was late, and Oliver needed to pee, necessitating a quick over-land jaunt to the gas station. Then back to Hraunsnef for a soak, another excellent supper, and, soon, sleep.
The Secret World of Ok

The silver lining in the rain clouds that have hung over Iceland since we arrived has been rainbows. All over the place. So many rainbows that we stopped taking photos, even though they were spectacular:

It rained all night last night, hard and steady. It was raining when we went to breakfast, and raining when we left breakfast. But, miracle of miracles, it was bright and sunny 30 minutes later when we headed out of Frost and Fire for the last time (capsule review: very nice guest house in an amazing location; recommended).

The sun made for a much better day, especially as it was the one we set aside to see the triple crown of Iceland's tourist attractions: Geysir, Gullfoss and �ingvellir.

From Hverager�i we headed east to Selfoss and then north toward Geysir. The road, like all paved roads we've driven here, was well marked and in good shape. Along the way we passed through half a dozen geological wonders, and just before Noon we rolled into Geysir, the mother of all "really hot water spurting from the earth" natural wonders and the one that gave its name to all others.

Geysir itself has been dormant for some time; fortunately its sister Strokkur is right beside, and it goes off every 5 or 6 minutes in a spectacular display of shooting water:

After a quick lunch of Northumberland Ferries-style pizza in the visitor centre, and a quick tour through the interpretive centre (not worth the 1600 kr�nur), we were back on the highway headed north to Gullfoss.

The same relaxed attitude toward public safety that we experienced yesterday with road construction carried on to the grand waterfall Gullfoss: the idea seems to be that if you are an idiot, you probably deserve to die, and they're not going to stand in your way. Which means that you have complete and total access to the waterfall, and can walk right up to its edge:

Children being children, Oliver announced that he needed to pee once we'd climbed all the way down the stairs from the hilltop viewing platform. Catherine, perhaps not so eager to go to the edge in any case, gamely volunteered to take him back up while I got as close as I, in my self-policing Canadian way, could manage while still maintaining proper safety protocols.

From Gullfoss we nipped back down past Geysir and then headed overland on gravel road 365 to �ingvellir, the spiritual heart of Icelandic government -- an assembly was founded there around 930 and continued to meet there until 1798. It also happens to be located at the end of scenic Lake �ingvallavatn, and, if all that isn't enough, is the site of a rather significant rift in the earth's crust.

When we parked the car and started off down the path to see �ingvellir's sights it was bright and sunny. By the time we got 500m down the path a freak rain cum hail storm appeared out of nowhere and we got soaked to the skin. As a result, save for reading a few signboards and getting a general sense of the spirit of the place, our true �ingvellir will have to wait until next time. Even without the democracy and the continental drift, it's a pretty beautiful place:

By the time we got changed into warm clothes we realized it was getting late, so we packed up and drove west to join the Ring Road, and then north, through a 6km undersea tunnel, through Borgarnes
and along to Hraunsnef Country Hotel
.

Hraunsnef is one of those places that has "labour of love" written all over it: it's a handcrafted hotel on a hill overlooking an impressive vista. There's a hot pot (Icelandic for "hot tub") beside a babbling brook, and a bang-up restaurant serving supper.

And for supper I had grilled salmon with garlic potatoes (excellent) and Catherine and Oliver shared an order of fish and chips (the speed of eating by Oliver proved that they too were very good).

Oliver and I each ordered Ok from the dessert menu -- a chocolate sundae with caramel sauce. Mmmm.

We're here for another night tomorrow, so we'll spend the day touring about western Iceland, relaxing in the hot pot, and, I hope, enjoying another meal downstairs.
Car Wheels on a Gravel Road

Early, early, early this morning we arrived in Iceland (our plane from Halifax touched down at Keflavik at 4:55 a.m.). With hours and hours to go before we could even begin to think about a hotel check-in, we took things easy: found Hertz, got the rental car keys, grabbed a coffee, parsed our new road atlas (best 2000 kr�nur I've ever spent!). So it wasn't until 6:58 a.m. that we hit the road:

It was 5 degrees C and raining when we left Keflavik -- just a light drizzle. Because our first night's lodging, in Hverager�i, was only an hour's drive away, we took the long way round, heading down to Grindav�k and the east along the coast, taking our time.

After curling up to die in a grocery store parking lot in Grindav�k for a few hours -- lack of sleep, jet lag, etc. -- our first real stop of the trip was at Selatangar
, an abandoned coastal fishing village about 12 km east. To get there we made our first transition from paved to gravel roads, and then a further transition to "gravel track" when we turned off the highway at the tiny marker that points the way.

Selatangar wasn't exactly on the tourist track -- we didn't pass a single car for the entire journey there and away -- and the rain had increased to a steady downpour by the time we arrived, but it was certainly worth the visit: the houses of the village, last occupied in the 1880s, were constructed of lava bricks, and many are still intact, albeit missing roofs:

One odd thing about Selatangar was the amount of garbage we came across strewn over the area: everything from fishing nets to deodorant bottles. At first I thought this was a result of rowdy Icelanders driving out and dumping their refuse on the site; then I realized that it was all coming from the ocean. I had no idea there was so much floating around in the water waiting to wash up in the middle of nowhere.

From Selatangar we continued east to visit Strandarkirkja
, a tiny perfect church right a stone's throw from the ocean:

We grabbed a coffee at a little place just up the road to tide us over, and around 1:30 p.m. we headed toward Hverager�i in earnest. Our journey was slowed somewhat by some hard-edge road construction: they don't seem to bother with flag-people on road crews here, so there was some harrowing "oh, that's a front end loader about to drop a load of lava rock" driving to be done. We emerged out the other end and hit pavement once again, and were in Hverager�i 10 minutes later.

Following the advice of Rough Guide, we had lunch at Cafe Kidda R�t
in the plaza on the edge of town: turned out they make an excellent burger and a serviceable asparagus soup and we left happy.

Frost and Fire Guesthouse
, our home for the night, was a quick drive through town up the hill. As with road crews so went hotel check-in: reception was empty so I picked up the house phone and the woman on the other end promised to be right there. She arrived two minutes later, walked me to our room, and then disappeared: no credit card check, no "what's the license plate number of your vehicle," no passports or ID required. Her only instructions: "you can use the pool and hot pot whenever you want." I could get used to this laissez faire approach to service.

And after a long soggy day, we were ready for a swim and a soak:

The air was 7 degrees C. The walkway to the pool from our room froze our feet. But the 38 degree water cured whatever ailed us and we spent a good hour lolling about.

For supper we headed up the road into Selfoss to eat at Menam
, a Thai restaurant. Very, very good Thai food too: coconut ginger chicken, spicy beef, deep-fried shrimp all served over rice with a salad on the side.

As I type Catherine and Oliver are fast asleep and the rain continues unabated. Tomorrow we're going to walk up the hill across the river to see the new geothermal action created by a 6.5 earthquake they had here in May, and then we'll do the Golden Circle, or at least part of it, before heading northwest to Borgarbygg� where we'll spend the next two days exploring western Iceland.

More photos here
(watch that channel over the week).
The Problem with Charlottetown
No Signature Required

I've used both my Mastercard and my Visa card here in the USA, in restaurants and shops in Massachusetts and New Hampshire, and I've not once had to sign a credit card slip. Apparently, at least for purchases under $25.00, this is the rule here now. Weird.

Which is not to say that having to sign was ever a great security feature, but you'd think that the direction would be from signature to PIN (the model in Europe), rather than from signature to nothing.
Off for a Week

I head off for a loop of travel tomorrow: first stop, Yankee
, where I'll head on the direct Delta flight Sunday afternoon, driving up to my usual perch at the Jack Daniels Motor Inn
before spending two days with my colleagues there on part two of a site re-architecting exercise.

Tuesday night I'm driving down Route 3
to Burlington, Massachusetts for some morning meetings on Wednesday, and then, that afternoon, down to Boston Logan to fly up to Toronto.

In Toronto I'll rendezvous with Catherine
and Oliver
where we'll fly together up to Thunder Bay for Theresa and Brad's wedding
. It's also a chance to show Oliver the birthplace of his grandfather and his great-grandmother, and to visit the gravesite of his great-great-grandfather.

After three days of wedding festivities, we'll fly back to Charlottetown a week from Sunday for three more days of Maximum Summer Fun before school starts on Thursday, September 4.
Eleven Days Later

Circumstances conspired to leave you eleven days to read my update from Boston
. In the interim:
- Johnny
  and I returned from our trip to Yankee
  after a brief stopover in Boston
  that facilitated the purchase of 4 pounds of Catherine
  's favourite coffee
  in the North End.
- We hosted Ton
  and Elmine
  for dinner at the tail end of their month-long trip to Canada.
- Oliver
  and my Mom
  and Dad
  and I took a short vacation to Louisbourg at the far end of Cape Breton. It rained the entire time, but we had a good trip nonetheless, touring the Fortress of Louisbourg
  (in driving hard rain that soaked us all to the skin; still impressive and fascinating, though), catching a musical revue at the Louisbourg Playhouse
  (which has an odd history
  ) and eating well every night at Grubstake
  . We rented a two-bedroom cottage at Peck's Cottages
  : inexpensive, clean, and well set up.
- We made our first visit to Harmony House
  in Hunter River to take in a Bruce Guthro
  show. A great night in a wonderful new theatre (check out their calendar of upcoming shows
  ; it's a wonderful new venue).
- I somehow missed a few months in there somewhere and forgot to pay for the fire insurance for our house, to register my car, and to pay off my Mastercard bill. Just now catching up.
At the end of August I'm back to Yankee
for two days, then up to Thunder Bay for a family wedding, then back on the Island for the start of school. At the end of September we're taking a 7-day family vacation in Iceland, at the end of which we'll hook up with Olle
and Luisa
in Reykjavik (en route from Copenhagen) for the start of their Prince Edward Island adventure
. In mid-October there's Zap Your PRAM
, which is shaping up nicely. And then Christmas.

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